International Intel: Huaraz, Peru

Huaraz is the capital of outdoor adventures and trekking in Peru. Set between the Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Negra, this town is pretty no-nonsense when it comes to things to do. You aren't here for nightlife or parties. This is the gateway into some of the best 1-day, 3-day, 8-day and 2-week treks.  If you enjoy nature and outdoors, add this to your bucketlist.


TREKS:

Laguna Wilcacocha: best way to acclimatize before all the other treks. an easy two hour hike through Quechua villages that ends with a panoramic view of 15-18 mountain peaks. You can take the public collectivo buses from downtown Huaraz to the beginning of the trail (the drivers will help make sure you get off at the right spot of you tell them where you are going). Bus costs S/ 2-3. NOTE: after walking 100-200 meters up the road at the beginning of the trail, look left to find the trail (otherwise you'll walk up the road which isn't nearly as scenic).  

Laguna 69 (1-day trek; S/45 for a tour): most popular day trek. Stunningly beautiful with enchanted Forrest, grazing animals, many waterfalls and lagunas. Medium difficulty. 3-hour hike up. Laguna 69 is emerald green and surrounded by gorgeous cliffs and a waterfall. Do a tour (too much work otherwise and you don't save any money). Bus leaves at 3-4am since 3-hour drive to Huascaran national park trailhead. Entry fee: S/10 (1-day) or S/65 (multi day). If doing Santa Cruz trek at some point during your trip, buy the multi day pass and you can use it later.
 

Laguna 69. Stunning Colors.

Laguna 69. Stunning Colors.


Laguna Churup (1-day trek; self guided, S/10 park entry fee): toughest of all the treks I did. Good fitness is recommended.  Begin climbing vertically from the first steps. Have to do a little rock climbing (using steel ropes bolted into the rocks) in some areas. Features waterfalls and a gorgeous Laguna at the top, fed by the Churup glacier's runoff. For best view, climb small hill at top by the Laguna to get unobstructed 360* view. Bring water and food. Takes about 3 hours up and 2-2.5 down. Get a collective from Huaraz to the village of Llupa. Highly recommended to get a taxi or hitch a ride from Llupa to start of the trail; otherwise it's a 1.5 hour walk to the trailhead.
 

Laguna Churup. Short, Difficult trek but worth it at the end.

Laguna Churup. Short, Difficult trek but worth it at the end.


Santa Fe Trek: 4-days; most popular trek in Huaraz; highly trafficked route; medium difficulty; Highest peak (Punto Union is 4760 meters). Beautiful surroundings, lagunas, mountain peaks, rivers, valleys and Forrest. Most tours cost $150-200 USD (incl. Tent, sleeping bag, porters, cook, meals, muleteers). In hindsight, I'd have done this without a tour. You can rent gear, get public buses to/from the trail and cook your own food for about $50. Our guide didn't teach us much and food was basic. Highly recommended with or without guide. We spent our last night amongst the natives listening, dancing, and learning how to play the harp. That was hilarious.

Santa Cruz Trek. 4-days of beauty.

Santa Cruz Trek. 4-days of beauty.

Santa Cruz. Night 2 or 3 has you camping in a valley surrounded by 5-6 mountains.

Santa Cruz. Night 2 or 3 has you camping in a valley surrounded by 5-6 mountains.

FOOD/DINING/NIGHTLIFE
 

Trivio: this is local micro brew Sierra Andina's restaurant and taproom.  Great beers; good food, semi pricey. Good ambiance. Outdoor patio and upstairs bar that has live music on the weekends.  Good spot for a bite and beer.

Cafe Andino: gringo outpost in a ski lodge building; pricey; fantastic library of books and magazines, good place to drink coffee and read/journal or have dinner. Quinoa salad, loom saltado and curry were tastey. Good craft brews.

Mi Comedia Pizza: good pizzeria and tastey pastas. Expensive for Huaraz but the portions are large and filling. Service can be mediocre. The meat calzone was good as was lasagna.

Trece Buhos: micro brews on tap. Great burger that they cook in front of you on the fire in their chimney. Big and delicious. Good spot to watch American sports or play pool. Ale Roja and Ale Blondie were good beers.

WHERE TO STAY

Albergue Churup Guesthouse: beautiful place to stay. Moderately priced rooms; dorms have three people. Breakfast included. Good WiFi. Rooftop terrace and great ski lodge style dining room and family room. Have a computer and movie room.
 

Albergue Churup Guesthouse is a Swiss-inspired ski chalet. Big breakfast too.

Albergue Churup Guesthouse is a Swiss-inspired ski chalet. Big breakfast too.